A clean install solves mystery slowdowns, driver tangles, and years of cruft. Done right, it also gives you a documented baseline you can reproduce in minutes next time. Here’s how to do it safely—no snake oil, no risky debloat scripts.
Before you touch anything: back up and inventory
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Back up data: Documents, Desktop, Photos, game saves, browser profiles, and any project folders. If you use cloud sync, verify the files are actually synced (green ticks aren’t infallible).
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Export essentials: Passwords (from your manager), authenticator accounts (add backup methods), SSH keys, license keys for critical apps.
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Driver snapshot (optional): In Device Manager, list any niche devices (audio interfaces, RAID, capture cards) so you can fetch the exact vendor drivers later.
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Firmware & BIOS: Update your motherboard BIOS/UEFI first; it can fix install oddities and power states.
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BitLocker & encryption: If your system drive is encrypted, suspend BitLocker before wiping.
Create official install media
Use Microsoft’s official tool to create a bootable USB (8 GB+). Avoid random ISO sources. Label the USB clearly so you can find it again in a year.
Configure UEFI settings (the quick pass)
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UEFI boot only (disable legacy CSM).
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Secure Boot enabled.
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TPM active (firmware TPM is fine).
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XMP/EXPO: leave off for the install if you’ve had stability issues; enable after Windows is up and stable.
The clean install
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Boot from the USB (F11/F12/Del key varies).
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At the drive selection screen, click Custom and delete the existing partitions on the Windows drive only (triple-check the disk).
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Create a new partition; Windows will add its own boot partitions.
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Let setup complete; don’t yank the USB early.
Local vs Microsoft account: Use whichever fits your workflow. A Microsoft account simplifies license and store app sync; a local account can be cleaner for benchmarking or privacy.
First boot: do not rush drivers
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Let Windows Update do the first wave. It’s annoyingly good at recent GPUs, chipsets, and Wi-Fi.
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Do install: chipset, GPU, storage (RST/AMD/NVMe driver if needed), audio, and any special device drivers from vendor sites.
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Don’t install: random “driver updater” tools. If Device Manager is clean and your device vendor supplies a driver, you’re done.
Privacy and telemetry (practical edition)
Windows 11 gives you toggles for ad ID, personalised tips, inking/typing, diagnostics. Turn off what you don’t want using built-in Settings. Avoid third-party “debloat” scripts unless you fully audit them; they break silently and complicate future updates.
Performance and power sanity checks
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Power plan: Balanced is fine on desktops; on laptops tune per your needs.
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Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling: harmless to try; leave on if stable.
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Game Mode: on by default; it’s okay.
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Virtualisation/Hyper-V: leave enabled only if you actually use VMs—some anti-cheat titles protest.
Storage layout and libraries
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Keep the OS on C: and move large Libraries (Downloads, Documents, Videos) to a data drive if you have one.
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Leave 10–20% free space on NVMe drives to keep write performance healthy.
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Set Restore Points or, better, take system images with a proper imaging tool once the machine is perfect.
Reinstall apps like a grown-up
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Make a post-install script or checklist (browser, password manager, office, DAW/NLE, launchers, tools).
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Keep a “drivers & installers” folder on your data drive with the current versions you actually use.
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Set up your cloud sync intentionally; don’t let it re-sink junk you just cleaned.
Gaming specifics
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Ensure Resizable BAR is enabled in BIOS; most modern platforms benefit.
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Install GPU control panel (Adrenalin/GeForce) and set a frame cap that matches your monitor or VRR range to reduce power spikes and noise.
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Keep the OS drive lean; put big games on a second NVMe where possible.
Reliability: earn yourself an easy redo
The best clean install is one you can recreate in minutes. Once you’re happy:
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Take a full system image and keep it offline.
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Document BIOS settings and driver versions.
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Archive the exact install media you used (and note the ISO/build).
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Keep that labelled USB with the PC.
Next time your machine feels weird, you won’t spend a weekend chasing ghosts.
Troubleshooting cheatsheet
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Installer can’t find your SSD: add the vendor NVMe/RAID driver temporarily; switch off RAID/Intel RST if you don’t need it.
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Activation weirdness: sign in with the Microsoft account previously tied to the device; digital licenses usually re-apply.
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Random freezes: test RAM with XMP/EXPO off, then on; one wonky stick ruins everything.
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USB devices dead after install: update chipset/ME/AM4-AM5/serial IO drivers from the board vendor.
FAQ
Do I need to disable TPM/Secure Boot? No. They’re part of the Windows 11 model; disabling adds friction for no upside.
Should I run registry “tweaks” for performance? Not unless you can explain what each one does and why. The best gains are from clean drivers, thermal headroom, and not maxing background apps.
Is a reset as good as a clean install? A “Reset this PC” is decent, but a clean install from fresh media removes more unknowns and fixes boot layout strangeness.
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